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Bali, Indonesia...the good, the bad and there's always a chicken

Friday, April 9, 2010

Bali, is a large...well, an island that you can't just walk across. It can take hours to get from point A to point B...and not with ease. From what I've always read and seen, Bali is the magical, mystical island of enchantment. Go to Bali, and your life is complete, there's simply nothing left to live for. What more could you want? By now, I had spent a short while in Indonesia, and Bali seemed like a welcome dream that was coming up on my horizon. It was time to move from the hot crowded insanity of Java, the dry desert reptilian danger of Komodo..and onto a nice tropical beach.

Bali, Indonesia

I'm looking out of my boat and I'm seeing a lush mountainous terrain where a volcanic mountain is barely visible through the mist that magically appears... regardless of the bright sun that glares down from the sky. I loved it, breathing in lung-fulls of fresh air and watching as the seagulls fly past the small boat. It was nice that we were low enough that I could reach out and touch the clean ocean water as we speed towards the dock.



Padang Bai, Bali, Indonesia

There were a group of us exiting the tender boat and we all poured up onto the dock. As usual, the typical smattering of law enforcement was standing around on the dock and watching us as we began our walk up the pier, into town. Before I go on any further, I feel that it is necessary to mention that we weren't arriving to the typical Bali destination where thousands of Australian college students flock to on summer break each year. Nope... we were walking into the town at Padang Bai, miles away from Ubud and hours away other popular areas. Why? Well, that just happened to be the itinerary and I didn't have time to do any further exploring of Bali.

Padang Bai, Bali, Indonesia

My grand dreams of Balian paradise crashed into reality as we walked into the thriving mass of locals waiting for us at the entrance to the town. Unfortunately for us, we had to walk right through hundreds...yes, hundreds of local venders who decided that we were going to buy something from each one of them. I have to re-emphasize to new readers...I'm a nice guy, totally respect local customs, traditions and people when I travel...but the chaos of making your way through street vendors is never fun. It's so chaotic that I can never even pull the camera out and get a photo of it.

Bali, Indonesia

This time, I kept my hands on my pockets and held my backpack close to me. Why? Because there were stranger's hands moving all over my body and I was literally crammed into the middle of a crowd. I could barely move and what's even more fun is that sharp statues and fake plastic models of whatever nearby temple were being shoved into my face. The crowd was loud enough that no one could even hear you when you politely said "No thanks". A lady who was trying to give me a religious relic and was yelling at me about how it was "free" and would give me blessings...decided that scratching me from the top to the bottom of my arm was her best bet at getting my attention. AAAHHHHH!!! Okay, let's just say that for a fleeting moment...just a minuscule of time...I was ugly American, and got through the rest of the initial crowd rather quickly.

Bali, Indonesia

After dabbing blood off of my sweaty and stinging arm, I quickly walked off into the streets. The only thing that I could think of at the moment, was how sorry I felt for the locals who had to pressure-sell so much just to make a living. Going through that experience in these countries always brings up such a mixture of emotions to leave me dwelling on later.

Bali, Indonesia

The small town of Padang Bai, was...really small. There are a couple of little side streets which go off in either direction. One side moved off towards the hill and the other went into the few blocks of local businesses. As usual, it wasn't easy to walk down the street without having to watch for motorcycles flying by. Me and my travel partner walked up on the sidewalk and peered into the various shops as we passed by. Lots of glares and frowns. I smiled and nodded, but didn't have much luck with local hospitality.

Bali, Indonesia

There were a number of small temples that were built here and there. I found the carvings and structures to be quite fascinating. I was very respectful because a lot of people seemed to be meditating and burning  incense at these various places. I had a feeling that the town was very religious due to the many Muslim clothes that I saw on lots of locals.

Bali, Indonesia

I stopped at a group of older Muslim ladies who were selling home made soap on the sidewalk. I looked at them and smiled and wanted to learn more about the soap, but their reaction was to pack up and clear out immediately, all four of them.

Bali, Indonesia

After walking away and trying to see more of the small town, my travel buddy and I ran into some friends who were on our boat. He and his wife had had the same unfortunate experience with the locals being either overly aggressive or very unfriendly. I often wonder if it's just me and that I'm expecting too much out of people, so to hear that other people experienced the same thing made me feel a little better. 

Bali, Indonesia

It didn't take long to walk through the small town, so we decided to meander up a road that headed off into the hills. I was already sun burned from Komodo island, so I didn't want to find a beach to relax on. The humidity was pretty high, but manageable.

Bali, Indonesia Farm

We walked up the long hill, it was mainly just trees on both sides of the road. We finally came to a small farm entrance and saw a couple of cows hanging around. A young boy ran out and broke into a mischievous grin. He stood off to the side and was mesmerized at the strangers who were out at the road. His mother and sister were sitting off to the side.

Bali, Indonesia Moo Cow

The mom spoke up and offered to let us look at the cows up close for $5 U.S. Hmmmm...I grew up in Oklahoma...so although it was mighty tempting, I passed. The young boy was trying to ask us questions in English, but was almost too shy to be understood. His sister asked me to take his picture.. to apparently embarrass him...so here it is.

Bali, Indonesia, kid on the farm

As we walked on further, there was a man sitting on the side of the road with a small grill and some fish that he was cooking. It really seemed out of place, but I could see that there were some workmen around some hut type houses nearby and I figured that they were eating their lunches this way. The man smiled at us and then offered to sell us some fish on a stick. We saw some trash laying up against a concrete wall there at the place where the men were working. A completely horrified chicken ran behind it all and darted back and forth while we stood there. I had to photograph him sticking his little head out. No matter where I travel, there always seems to be a chicken in one of my photos.

Bali, Indonesia (Chicken in the clutter)

After walking up into the hills for a while, we decided that it was probably safer to go back to town. It became pretty jungle like at one point so we turned around and headed back down the hill. As we came back to the entrance of the small town, there was an interesting little side street which beckoned us in.

Bali, Indonesia

Maybe it was the wicker baskets full of chickens that were lined up against the wall. The alley was  somewhat of a narrow path with houses that pressed up against it on each side. The alley echoed with the sound of clucking. While walking up the little street, we saw a small store front that seemed to be carved out of someone's house. There were chips, sodas and more for sell. We were quite thirsty at this point and luckily a small family came from the back.

Bali, Indonesia

They were all smiles, and so friendly. It was strange seeing a little store like this up an alleyway that was practically devoid of life. We bought some drinks from the sweet mother and talked with the family for a while. They asked us all sorts of questions about where we were from, etc.. A policeman who was a friend of theirs came up on a motorcycle and joined the conversation. With all the laughter and talking, people started coming out of the homes and into the alley.

Bali, Indonesia

After we said goodbye to the family, we passed another family of seniors who wanted to talk with us. The wife was too shy, but the two older men were apparently fascinated with my camera and wanted their photo taken with it. I guess after seeing us talk with the other family, they trusted us.

Bali, Indonesia

We talked more, laughed more and took a few more photos. After some more goodbyes, we headed back down the alley and towards town.

Bali, Indonesia

When we finally reached the town again, we walked along and looked at some more of the small shops. I loved watching all the women carry baskets and things on their heads. I can't imagine how they manage it. My vegetables would end up all over the ground if I tried that. They must develope great posture from years of doing this.

Bali, Indonesia

After a few blocks, we ran across a school that was bustling with energy as young kids ran all over the school yard and street. They surrounded us and in a very friendly way, began to talk to us in English. The teachers were sitting on the benches and I looked over at them to make sure it was okay. The group of teachers smiled and nodded, so we spent some time talking to the kids. What a bunch of little actors...they all wanted their photo taken and crowded around in groups. In the states, we call this "Hamming" it up for the camera.

Bali, Indonesia

The teachers let us spend quite a while with the kids. I guess it helped them practice their English, and helped them to have a healthy interaction with people from other countries.

Bali, Indonesia

It was interesting how friendly and fun the kids were compared to many of the adults in the town. I was so happy that we were beginning to see some of the warmth and hospitality that we had heard about before arriving to Bali.

Bali, Indonesia

These boys were required to take out the trash as part of their chores. They made such a production of it and of course, made sure they posed for each dramatic step.

Bali, Indonesia

The kids played on the slide and stopped at the stop for their pose. Not one single kid asked for money during the whole time we were there. I was happy about that. They seemed to really enjoy the visiting. People often wonder why travelers take photos of children when they go to other countries. The answer is simple. When you travel to a foreign land, children are generally the only people who don't care where you're from, or who you are. They generally are too young to have or to understand prejudice, and they look at you with the same honest and kind fascination that we should all have for each other.

Bali, Indonesia

I spent a lot of time trying to keep up with various kids yelling "Me", "Me"...and wanting another photo taken. The teachers were always too shy and just giggled as they covered their own faces, so I didn't pester them.

Bali, Indonesia

There was a mother and his son or grandson who were sitting outside of one of the little stores by the school. I took a couple of photos of them (with permission). We walked over and ended up buying a lot of little snack packets of various things. I had no idea what most of them were, but the lady would point and say "Spicy" or "Sweet" or "Salty"... we took like...thirty packet of them. They were quite cheap, but I have to say it was a lot of fun eating through them over the next week. Some of them were snacks made out of Tapioca. I am used to only having that as a pudding, not a snack cracker.

Bali, Indonesia

We spent some more time in the town and ended up buying some gifts from various vendors. It's possible to get a good deal on silks and things if you bargain. Beware though, they will ask for lots more than it's worth, so you do have to bargain.

Bali, Indonesia

Padang Bai has a few nice hotels and restaurants. It's possible to spend a lot of money there. I wouldn't suggest going to Padang Bai as a single destination, but Bali, in general is beautiful. There is a lot of poverty in Indonesia, so remember that Bali is not all resorts and Hard Rock Cafes. Those fancy places are an unrealistic image of the way many of the people have to live and survive there. Bali can be dangerous due to scams and the occasional religious conflict. I've spoken to people who had problems there. Overall, we were okay, but things can happen, so always be careful and wise when you travel.

Bali, Indonesia

To be fair, thousands of people go to Bali every year and love it. I didn't explore other parts of the island like the popular destination areas, so I can only talk about what I experienced in Padang Bai. Indonesia has an incredibly rich culture of music, food and art. It's islands vary greatly from one to the next in scenery and sometimes climate.

Bali, Indonesia

Due to the large amount of poverty, the overcrowded conditions and internal conflicts, it can often be an uncomfortable experience if you wander off the beaten path. If you ever visit Indonesia, I would recommend a tour. It's better to be guided by someone who knows the islands and highlights. Many of the Indonesian people were kind and wonderful. I have also befriended a number of them from various travel ventures and have gotten to know much about their lives and beliefs.

Bali, Indonesia

There are some more simple photos of Padang Bai in my Flickr album, which you can access HERE.

6 comments:

Anonymous said...

I really enjoy your photographs, and this travelogue on Bali reminded me of our excursion into Kuta one day - it was brief I couldn't take the crowds of vendors hassling me.
Pauline

Luther Bailey said...

Thank you Pauline! :-) Yes, my experience in Bali was a bit different than what I had expected. I'm glad I was able to visit the island though.

Luther Bailey

Anonymous said...

I enjoyed your pics of Bali. I have been to Bali twice and enjoyed every minute of it.

Camille
Dallas TX

Luther Bailey said...

Hi Camille!

Thank you for the nice words and for reading.

Anonymous said...

Hi Luther,OMG, that lady scratching your arm, how bizarreee? Did you like Bali overall? I am Indonesian ,just got back from Jakarta , hated it, traffic jams everywhere.....Esther.

Luther Bailey said...

Hi Esther!

Yes, it surprised me. I'm sure her intention wasn't to scratch, but her excitement and aggressive nature in the crowd caused the incident. It was frustrating, more than anything. Bali, was beautiful, but I'm not sure if I'd go back. I'm open minded enough to realize that I'm sure I could have a good time there in the right situation, but there are so many other places to visit that are on my list. Sorry that Jakarta was so crazy for you. Certainly a culture shock from U.S. Take care, Luther

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